How Puppies Learn
The key to being a good trainer is understanding how our puppies learn. Here are our top tips to help you get the most out of your Puppy School experience.
What equipment will I need?
You won’t need any special equipment, just a plain buckle collar or a well-fitting harness and lead. Avoid collars and leads made of chain or rope as these will hurt your puppy’s neck or your hands.
Avoid walking your puppy on an extendable (or Flexi) lead during training. This is because the extending length of the lead can be confusing to puppies when we want them to learn to walk on a fixed length of lead without pulling. For that to happen, the length of the lead needs to be constant.
Check the collar or harness fits well and you can slip two fingers under it. Continue to check this as your puppy grows. Make sure that a collar is tight enough that it cannot be pulled over your puppy’s head, or that your puppy cannot pull out of the harness when you are in an unsafe place.
Harnesses with a Y-shaped front piece (for example, Perfect Fit, Mekuti, TTouch) allow a puppy’s shoulder joints and legs to move freely.
It is a legal requirement to have an identification disc attached to the collar or harness even if your puppy is microchipped, and it will be useful in case they get lost.
A treat pouch is not essential but is useful when training as it means you can gain access to food rewards quicker than pockets or tubs, whilst freeing up your hands.
Pouches that go around your waist are particularly good as they are a good size for most hands to fit in and ones with a magnetic closure are easier to access.
Motivating young puppies
Using Treats
Soft, smelly food with a high meat content is usually more acceptable than dry, hard food, but some puppies with a big appetite will work well for the dry kibble. Natures Menu puppy treats (95% meat), cooked chicken, warm sausage, or liver that has been dried in the oven are all very acceptable to puppies. Treats should be small so your puppy does not become full too quickly. Pieces about the size of a pea are best (small pea for small pups, large pea for larger pups).
Use the treats that work best for your puppy. You may find that after a few days, your puppy begins to lose interest in working for familiar treats. Changing the type of treats you offer regularly will help.
To avoid overfeeding your puppy as a result of feeding lots of treats, measure the amount of food needed for each day, replace some with special treats for training, and make sure the food and treats form a well-balanced diet.
Your puppy needs to be interested in working for the treats you are offering during training, so your puppy needs to be peckish during lessons. For this reason, it is not a good idea to try to train your puppy soon after a meal. It is important that your puppy is not too hungry either, as they can become too excited by the food to concentrate well.
Top tip when using treats - remember to avoid having them in your hands if you are not luring whilst practising your training, as your puppy may become too focused on the food reward and again, too excited to concentrate well. This is also true if using a treat pouch, be mindful not to have a hand always going into the pouch before your puppy has finished practising what you have asked him to do (this is called overshadowing).
Using toys
Some puppies work harder for a game with a toy than for food. Soft toys that can be bitten and tugged are best. A big disadvantage of using toys is that they are not easy to use as a lure. You also have to play a quick game with the toy (the reward is the play) and get it back again afterwards - not always as quick and easy as feeding a treat. However, if you have a puppy that will work for toys and not for treats, games are a great reward for learning. Keep a special toy for this purpose so that it is always of interest to your puppy.
Using toys with long handles can be of particular advantage if you have a puppy that likes to bite and play near to hands, as the extra length means you can keep hands higher up but keep the toy low to the floor to avoid teaching jumping up. They can also be useful for family members who may have softer skin.
In the mood to learn
As well as being interested in food or wanting to play, your puppy also needs to be alert and lively rather than tired. Choose times for training during the day when they have had enough rest, when they do not want to go to the toilet, and when they are not distracted by anything else. If you own a boisterous puppy that has lots of energy, particularly if they are from a working strain, give them plenty of time for play and free running sessions in a safe place before training. This will help to ensure that your puppy is in a calm, ready-to-learn mood.
Remember that this should be for short amounts of time so that your puppy isn’t then too tired before training.
Your Puppy's Name
Your puppy will quickly learn to pay attention to you when they hear their name if you say it whenever something nice will happen to them. Your puppy will begin to look at you in anticipation when you say it. Your puppy will learn a number of cues for different actions in class. Once they are responding to their name, you can use it to get them to look at you if they are distracted just before you ask them to do one of the training exercises (there is no need to say their name if they are already looking at you and paying attention).
Reward based training
- Use food luresThe quickest way for your puppy to learn an exercise is for you to use food as a lure to encourage them to show them what you want them to do so you can reward it. Luring is a technique you will learn in class where you hold a small piece of food in your fingers, put it right next to your puppy’s mouth and lure them to where you want them. Since the puppy can lick and chew the food and wants more, they will follow where you lead them.
- Reward with treatsAs soon as your puppy does the action you require, feeding what is left of the treat will make it more likely your puppy will do that action again next time. To let your puppy know that action was what you wanted, feed a few more treats while your puppy remains in that position.
- Timing is everything!Timing is very important since the reward needs to be given IMMEDIATELY as soon as the puppy does the right thing. This will link the action with the reward in the puppy’s mind which will make it more likely that they will show that behaviour again given similar circumstances. If you are not luring, but using another way to get your puppy to behave in the way you want, be sure to have a treat ready in your hand to give immediately so there is no delay while you find a treat in your pocket or treat pouch.
- Teach a hand signalOnce you have found a way to reliably get the required action, a hand/body signal can be added to let your puppy know that a reward is now available for performing that action. You will find that, with enough repetitions, they will begin to respond to the signal and you can stop luring. Voice cues are quite difficult for your puppy to learn (dogs communicate with body language rather than verbal language) so these are taught last. At this stage, you won’t need the treat in your hand and can reward your puppy after they complete the required action.
- Practice makes perfectAs with human learning, repetition and practice is needed to firmly cement the training in the puppy’s mind. Puppies take time to learn new lessons, just as young humans do, so don’t expect to train them overnight. You should, however, be making constant, steady progress. If you go wrong and realise you have been rewarding the wrong action, it doesn’t matter, simply adjust your training procedure and reward the behaviour you do want in future.
- Repeat the mantra....Throughout your puppy’s education and training: Encourage and reward behaviour and actions you do like. Ignore or prevent behaviour or actions you don’t like.
Learning handling skills
It will take time for you to learn the handling skills needed to make the training work successfully, particularly if this is your first puppy. Learning how to hold the treat, how to use it as a lure, how to hold your puppy, how to use the lead to ensure success, and all the other skills you need takes practice, rather like driving a car or riding a bike. If you are new to puppy training, don’t expect to be good at it to begin with (remember the first time you drove a car or rode a bike). Keep practising, keep working on the correct way to do it, and you will gradually develop all the skills you need to be successful.
Different associations
It is important to be aware that when you teach an exercise, your puppy will learn a set of associations surrounding that event, rather than just what you are focusing on. If, for example, you always teach your puppy to lie down for his dinner in the kitchen, and he begins to lie down in the kitchen when you ask, you may think he knows what the word ‘down’ means. However, you will find that if you take him outside and ask him to lie down, the voice cue will not work. This is not because he doesn’t want to respond but because he doesn’t understand. He needs to be taught the same exercise in many different places and in different positions relative to you before he begins to understand that the voice cue, heard anywhere, means there is a reward on offer for a particular action.
Successful rewarding
While your puppy is learning, it is best to reward every small success to make it more likely it will happen again next time. Be generous and reward every single correct action. You will find your puppy works well for you and enjoys learning. Learning is hard work and puppies need a good incentive to work through the frustration of not knowing what to do to get to the point where they can respond in a way that gets them the reward.
Once your puppy has learned to associate a voice cue or hand signal with a particular action and is responding reliably every time, you can begin to reduce the ‘wages’ you pay for responding with either fewer rewards or less valuable rewards (doing this too soon, however, before your puppy has reliably learned what to do will lead to confusion and lack of learning). Remember, nobody likes to work for free, puppies included!
Since there may be many things your puppy may prefer to do other than to do as you ask, he may wander off or stop responding if the ‘wages’ for working for you are too low, so try to aim for ‘fair pay’ for each action you ask for. If your puppy is doing something for you which means he cannot do something he prefers (such as coming when you call from playing with other dogs or even just running free in a new open area) always pay well, often and immediately, to keep responses sharp. Keep the rewards your puppy enjoys most for these occasions.
While puppies are still young, your love and praise will mean a lot to them and showing loving social approval can really help to speed up learning. Some dogs (such as those with herding or gun dog genetics) will work harder to please you than the more independent types (hounds, sled dogs) who may always need to be ‘paid’ to keep them responsive. These differences in willingness to please will become more obvious once they begin to mature, and particularly during adolescence.
Efficient training
Short and sweet!
Sessions should be short, sweet and successful. They should last no longer than 3 minutes. This will help to ensure that neither you or your puppy get tired and you both always leave the session wanting more. Always finish on a success, if necessary going back to something your puppy already knows so you can reward well.
Research has shown that puppies remember more if the session ends with a game. If your puppy finds it hard to settle into learning, starting with a game may help focus their attention and get them into the right mood for work.
Learning is tiring!
Young puppies need a lot of sleep. Using their brain to make new connections and associations when learning is particularly tiring. For this reason, give your puppy time to rest after each training session and especially after class. If you have young children, find a place where your puppy can sleep undisturbed.
There is some evidence that memories are consolidated during deep sleep so providing peace and quiet and a safe place to sleep could fast track your puppy’s training.
Reasons why your puppy could be hard to motivate
If your puppy is of a giant breed they may not have energy for very long before wanting to sleep. It is best to train these puppies in very short sessions when they wake up and are feeling lively.
If puppy is unwell this may make them feel lethergic and less enthusiastic. if you are unsure, arrange a visit to your veterinary practice for a check up.
If your puppy plays more with another dog than with humans it may reduce their interest in people. For these puppies it can be beneficial to prevent them playing with other dogs for a while until their interest lies with you. Then play three times longer with your puppy than they play with other dogs until they are a year old.
If you have been using the same toys and treats for a long time your puppy may lose interest. It might be time to change to new, exciting toys or tasty treats. Equally, if you use a boring, monotone voice, you can try being more fun and squeaky!
If you are a loud and outgoing person but have a shy and sensitive puppy, they may find it your enthusiasm too much. These puppies sometimes require owners to be quieter, more patient , more encouraging and less forceful.
When puppies are worried they often will not eat or play (common in puppies that grew up in kennels and are lacking in social contact with humans). Allow your puppy longer to settle into your home and learn to trust the people within it. Train in a safe area where your puppy feels secure.
If your puppy is full they may not want to take treats. Instead, wait until your puppy is peckish before attempting another training session.
Tired puppies often lack energy and ability to focus. They also struggle to demonstrate self control (which is why tired puppies often become bitey monsters). Wait until your puppy is well rested before attempting another training session.
This is common in puppies with a thick coat, especially on a warm day. Find somewhere cooler or wait until later in the day to train.
Be prepared
To make your training sessions much easier, be prepared well in advance so you can train whenever you have a few moments spare. At the beginning of each day, make sure there is a small pot of treats and a soft fluffy toy available in each room of the house and in your coat pocket or with the lead and bag you take on walks. Prepare a plastic tub of ‘special’ fresh treats in the fridge so there are always treats of higher value to use for the more difficult lessons.
In addition, it is helpful to have a brief plan of what you are going to train during each session. This is especially useful if there is more than one person in the family working with the puppy. Notes on how the session went, as well as what to train next time, are a helpful way to think through the training process so you can progress quickly and efficiently.
Remember to let your puppy practise with one person then allow them time to do something else fun before repeating with another person. Too many people trying to do the same thing all at once with a puppy can cause confusion or for puppy to become overwhelmed.
Be methodical
Puppy School training is carefully designed to help guide you through each part of your puppy’s learning gradually and successfully. There are reasons behind all the tiny details we provide for you, both here and in the Puppy School manual and in class. Success in each element will lead you to a very well-trained puppy. If you are stuck on any part, please ask your tutor for help rather than skip that part and hope for the best.
Be patient
Puppies that come to classes are still very young and their brains are still developing. In addition, the canine brain is very different from the human brain, both in ability to think and in the way their senses perceive the world. Try to be patient when you are teaching your puppy, both when working through the exercises we teach in class and while teaching them how to behave in your world. Be clear with what you are asking and give them time to process. If they do not understand, try again, and use a slightly different approach if necessary. Above all, be patient and kind and make lessons fun. This will give your puppy the best possible chance to learn what you are trying to teach.
Practice makes perfect
To make the most of classes, try to find time to practise all the exercises you learn in class, using the ‘Are you ready for next week?’ sections as a guide. This will get you to a point where you are ready to learn the next stage of the training. If you do have time and if you can work through all the exercises and do some practice every day, your puppy will be well trained, but it will only happen if you can find time to put the work in.
Don’t worry if you cannot complete everything though. We understand that busy lives sometimes prevent us from achieving all our goals so just do the best you can during each week. We also know that in addition to the training exercises you will be learning in class and practising at home, there are many other components of a puppy’s education, such as socialisation, house training, good manners, and they all take time and effort.
Completing all the exercises so that your puppy understands what is required does not usually take too long. Refining the training so they respond to voice cue alone and also respond every time and during distractions takes more work and more practice. It is your puppy and it is up to you how much work you put in. This time in their lives, pre-adolescence, while your puppy is still impressionable and focussed on you, is the easy time for training though so it makes sense to do as much as you can now.




















